Bealach a' Chomhla
- Daniel and Clare's
photos (10th December 2012)
But first, ice where we didn't expect it...
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After yesterday's spectacular, fast-moving rain and light, today gradually emerged as clear as a bell, and beautifully crisp: a perfect winter day.
Before we set off for Coire Mhic Nòbaill, we had a dawn diversion down to the loch: all of 10 yards or so, but we spent some time there. Surely not, but yes, the sea was starting to freeze!
We were initially heading for Coire na Caime, but at the junction just beyond the bridge over the Abhainn Choire Mhic Nòbuil (N882591), we headed left to head upwards to get close to Beinn Alligin, and perhaps catch some sunshine; our objective was now the Bealach between Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg.
A little diversion in the direction of Tom na Gruagaich kept us on the west of the Allt a' Bhealaich, so when we got higher up, we were on the wrong side of it to get to Càrn Doineig, but we did at least see it from a little way above. The sad story behind this particular march cairn is beautifully told in Murdoch MacDonald's "Walking into the past". Also in Brenda Macrow's book. We hope one day to make another trip to see it close to.
We got back to the road at about 5 p.m., so it was only very dim twilight: too dark to go back to Lochside directly through the woods and along the estate road. So instead we walked the long way round, on the public road from the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park towards Fasag, picking up the estate road at its other end. Under the stars - brilliant, brilliant stars, with the distinctive profile of Sgorr A'Chadail high above to our left - what a day that hill blessed us with on our previous visit to Lochside. Tonight, there wasn't a hint of haze or moonlight to fade this stellar show.
The cold deepened as darkness completed: would the sea still be frozen tomorrow? But for now, we just couldn't keep our eyes off the milky way and the great ridge ahead of us. The end of another fabulous day...
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The sea at Upper Loch Torridon: freezing begins::
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10th December: first light (8.15ish) suggested the reflections would be good (the moon is a bit wavy due to weed near the shore? The slight blur is due to us not having a tripod etc.!). There was frost on the grass and ice on the shore |
Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now... |
...but another hour on, and the whole loch was fuzzy: yes, it was freezing rapidly - while a bright day was just getting going. |
With the tide out, the seaweed was well draped with ice... |
...well patterned in places... |
...but thin and fragile as yet |
Frosted seaweed |
Coire Mhic Nòbaill::
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This ice was on the estate pond, just by the path through the woods to Coire Mhic Nòbuill (just the other side of the old kennels) |
Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park |
Still some faint morning colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin... |
...which were more fully revealed a bit further up the path |
Contrasting light: early view of Beinn Dearg, still in the forested part of the Coire. The cloud looked a bit ominous, but soon disappeared. |
Tom na Gruagaich |
The three summits of Beinn Alligin: Tom na Gruagaich (left), Sgùrr Mòr (middle) and the Horns (right) |
Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil - a much photographed waterfall |
Heading up towards the Bealach a' Chomhla::
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Both arms of Beinn Dearg are clear from the fine new bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil |
Beinn Eighe |
Heading up beside the Allt a' Bhealaich: more waterfalls |
There's also a sturdy bridge over the Allt a' Bhealaich: Beinn Dearg from the bridge... |
...and the view downstream |
We went off the path to the west. Unlike the previous photo of Beinn Dearg, this one has no automatic contrast-reduction, so the colours are more their natural strength |
In the sun: left-to-right are Liathach's Sgorr a' Chadail, Beinn Damh (Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire), Beinn Shieldaig, and the Applecross peninsula. |
Tom na Gruagaich - "swags" of snow |
Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr |
Liathach's Spidean a' Choire Lèith (rightmost skyline) |
Near the bealach now: Baosbheinn |
..and a similar view later, on the way back |
At the Bealach::
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The hidden side of the Horns (Na Rathanan and An t-Sàil Bheg)... |
...and further down the slopes: the outflow from Loch Toll nam Biast - an enchanting place: we came down this way when we climbed Beinn Alligin (Tom and Sgùrr Mhòr, but not the Horns) in 2000 |
Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach |
Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach |
Frozen sphagnum |
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin |
Left-to-right: Baosbheinn, Beinn an Eòin, Beinn Lair, A'Mhaighdean, Slioch, Beinn a' Chearcaill, Meall a' Ghiuthais, Beinn Dearg, Mullach an Rathain |
Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right) |
Ice::
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Ice on lochans and streams |
Ice on the paths |
Returning::
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Liathach |
Beinn Dearg, in softer hues now |
Evening light |
(Text and photos by Daniel and Clare Gordon. March 2013).
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