Winter closing in: leaving Torridon for Strathcarron Sea ice loses its grip; we say farewell for now |
It seemed that as we left, the surroundings gradually disappeared under a murk of mist and snow.
Overnight, it had been clear that things were changing. The wind got up, but its wailing was dwarfed by what sounded like midnight at the turn of the Millenium in a big city - a massive fireworks display: Tuesday's quirky and diverse ice-music had changed into a wild cacophony of crashes and bangs, as the waves broke up the sea-ice, dumping and smashing it unceremoniously on the shore.
When we got up, the sky was, again, completely clear. But in the pre-dawn half-light, the ice was hard to spot - waves chivvied the surface of the loch and it just didn't have the look or feel of a fine day ahead. We left the cottage mid-morning: it was already overcast. As we headed towards Fasag, we looked back to see snow showers approaching.
We started the holiday as we ended it, at Jo's place, where we were introduced quite by chance to Dorothy, the music lady of Torridon, and her friend whose mother-in-law used to live at Lochside - she was housekeeper to Lady Lovelace. Thnwe met up with Murdoch and Mairi MacDonald, and their son John. We chatted for an hour over tea and cakes, before finally saying our goodbyes. It was a fabulous way to end a uniquely beautiful holiday.
The snow had arrived, and it was time for us to head for the bus-stop, back to Strathcarron and the train to Inverness. The following morning we headed home. Snow turned to rain somewhere around the Border, but we didn't care. Sometimes you take something with you which truly transcends.
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(Text and photos by Daniel and Clare Gordon. March 2013).
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