C&D home → photos → Wester Ross → 2012: Torridon → whole holiday on one sequence/page

Our first winter visit to Torridon - an extraordinary spectacular of light and sound - a single sequence of photos by Daniel and Clare (7th-13th December 2012).

Beinn Damh from Loch an Eoin

Many thanks to everyone who's made us so welcome again - Jo and Emily at Torridon Stores, the staff of the Torridon House Estate, and the staff of the Strathcarron hotel.

Also to Murdoch, Mairi and John MacDonald - it was great to see you all.

We were staying at Lochside Cottage, as we did on our previous visit to Torridon, in 2011. We thought that holiday couldn't be bettered... But this seemed even more unique: given that we don't get there very often, and particularly in winter, we'll probably never see and hear the like of this again. We're so lucky to have some recall, and a camera...

As well as the photos below, there are some recordings of the amazing noise of the sea ice moving: the recordings are rough ones but give a bit of the flavour of the whooshing slides, tinkles, smashes and cracks that were our constant accompaniment on the morning of 11th December, with fiery sunrise. Here is an example recording (about 30 seconds long, 0.6 MBytes). The little sea-ice audio page has more. There's also a writeup of the trip on WalkHighlands.

This isn't so much about walks and routes, or even history or the hills themselves, but rather a sample of what we saw over a few days of a winter in Torridon - brilliant, vivid times, which we felt priveleged to witness.

This page is a single photosequence for the whole trip. The only text is in the captions with the photos. For more detail, please see the individual pages, linked from the main page for the holiday. Thank you.

[To see any of the photos below at a bigger size, please left-click on the (small) photo in the table: You can step through the photos on the enlarged display by using the arrow keys; press Esc to quit the bigger display. To make the enlarged display full-screen size, press F11. The full-screen mode will take effect once you move to another photo. Press F11 again to get it back to normal size, etc.

Each box on this page is linked to a self-contained slide-show. You can start the slides at any point in a box clicking on any thumbnail]

7th December: the journey starts in earnest: Deeper inland and higher, snow and some shafts of sun
Edinburgh to Inverness:
7th December: the journey properly underway! This is West Lomond (Lomond probably meaning beacon): field colours and electronic 'beacons' West and East Lomond
Beacons ancient and modern: the Fife Lomonds 		Perth station
Perth station 		Open country north of Perth Open country north of Perth
Open country north of Perth 		Pitlochry station Pitlochry station
Pitlochry station
Views from Drumochter pass Views from Drumochter pass Views from Drumochter pass
Views from Drumochter pass 		Approaching Aviemore (west towards the Monaliath)
Approaching Aviemore (west towards the Monaliath) 		and beyond Carrbridge where the landscape opens out (looking west).
and beyond Carrbridge where the landscape opens out (looking west).
Inverness:
First stop in Inverness is always this memorial to the station's two well-loved furry friends...
First stop in Inverness is always this memorial to the station's two well-loved furry friends... 		...The late Diesel, waiting near the office with one of his carers (in 2007)
...The late Diesel, waiting near the office with one of his carers (in 2007)
Inverness to Strathcarron, via Kyle of Lochalsh:
Looking north over the head of the Beauly Firth
Looking north over the head of the Beauly Firth 		The Wyvis range
The Wyvis range 		Approaching Strathpeffer
Approaching Strathpeffer 		Heading into the interior: more open country
Heading into the interior: more open country
Loch Achanalt was partly open... ...but mainly iced up
Loch Achanalt 		Getting wilder, and colder, but still with plantations, ditches, etc.
Getting wilder, and colder, but still with plantations, ditches, etc. 		The outline of Sgurr a'Mhuillin seemed almost ghostly...
The outline of Sgurr a'Mhuillin seemed almost ghostly... 		...and gave scale to the ruin it overshadows.
...and gave scale to the ruin it overshadows.
Nearly at Achnasheeen: looking back
Nearly at Achnasheeen: looking back 		and beyond Achnasheen, near the watershed: the inflow to (upper) Loch Gowan
and beyond Achnasheen, near the watershed: the inflow to (upper) Loch Gowan 		Descending now: Loch Sgamhain
Descending now: Loch Sgamhain 		The River Carron, less snowy Glen Carron A poor photograph, but a not untypical trainside view
Approaching Glen Carron: winter receding up the contours as the albeit indented coast gets nearer
Strange colours on Cnoc na h-Atha, backed by An Ruadh-Stac (left), Meall nan Ceapairean (middle) and Sgorr Ruadh (right)
Strange colours on Cnoc na h-Atha, backed by An Ruadh-Stac (left), Meall nan Ceapairean (middle) and Sgorr Ruadh (right) 		Strathcarron and Glas Bheinn
Strathcarron and Glas Bheinn 		Another brief spell of brightness: Loch Carron
Another brief spell of brightness: Loch Carron 		Passing Plockton (on the left)
Passing Plockton (on the left)
Detail of column at Kyle of Lochalsh station The last train of the day...
The three lights of the Skye Bridge, from the waiting train
Kyle of Lochalsh station 		When we got to Strathcarron, England seemed like another planet. We'd left Leeds the previous evening - it's a nice run up the east coast but in the dark it was impossible to get photos from the train. This is the view of Durham Cathedral: the photo is from on a different day, from terra firma by the station, but it did look like this - the first "sight" of our trip
When we got to Strathcarron, England seemed like another planet. We'd left Leeds the previous evening - it's a nice run up the east coast but in the dark it was impossible to get photos from the train. This is the view of Durham Cathedral: the photo is from on a different day, from terra firma by the station, but it did look like this - the first "sight" of our trip
8th December: arrival at Torridon: The walking begins, with a minibus journey between...
Strathcarron to Lochcarron:
8th December: Looking back at Strathcarron from the road to Lochcarron
8th December: Looking back at Strathcarron from the road to Lochcarron 		Many of the trees were almost covered in lichen
Many of the trees were almost covered in lichen 		A well-horned sheep
A well-horned sheep 		After turning left towards the village, the hills aren't far away...
After turning left towards the village, the hills aren't far away...
...giving a fine position for this craft centre. It's still a long road to the village from here, though
...giving a fine position for this craft centre. It's still a long road to the village from here, though 		The new glasses beaded well in the rain!
The new glasses beaded well in the rain! 		Looking from Lochcarron (village) across Loch Carron (sea loch), to the railway west of Attadale. The train on the left gives some sense of the context of the line! In some places, the sea cliffs were so intractable, they built out into the loch.
Looking from Lochcarron (village) across Loch Carron (sea loch), to the railway west of Attadale. The train on the left gives some sense of the context of the line! In some places, the sea cliffs were so intractable, they built out into the loch.
(A closer view of the waterfall)
(A closer view of the waterfall) 		Attadale, from across the loch
Attadale, from across the loch 		OK, here's one from the minibus: Liathach (right, vague, skyline); the near bay is Ob Mheallaidh, with Camas a' Chlàrsair (the harper's bay), beyond
OK, here's one from the minibus: Liathach (right, vague, skyline); the near bay is Ob Mheallaidh, with Camas a' Chlàrsair (the harper's bay), beyond
Arrival at Fasag:
The real start of the holiday: Jo's Torridon stores and café on the right
The real start of the holiday: Jo's Torridon stores and café on the right 		Am Ploc and the head of Upper Loch Torridon, from just outside Jo's
Am Ploc and the head of Upper Loch Torridon, from just outside Jo's 		Waterfalls streaking the steep north flanks of Beinn na h'Eaglaise, viewed from the road towards the Youth Hostel
Waterfalls streaking the steep north flanks of Beinn na h'Eaglaise, viewed from the road towards the Youth Hostel 		As we headed past the NTS countryside centre and down towards the Mains, Sgurr Ruadh came into view in a misty kind of way. Certainly it was wintry - looking good enough for us, though much better was to come.
As we headed past the NTS countryside centre and down towards the Mains, Sgurr Ruadh came into view in a misty kind of way. Certainly it was wintry - looking good enough for us, though much better was to come.
The west end of the Fasag, in context.
The west end of the Fasag, in context. 		Trees by the road to the mains - not normally this wet
Trees by the road to the mains - not normally this wet 		Beinn Damh and the saltmarsh at Eilean Mòr with Mol nan Eun
Beinn Damh and the saltmarsh at Eilean Mòr with Mol nan Eun 		Further round to the west: Beinn Shieldaig (middle) and the north edge of the Applecross peninsula Further round to the west: Beinn Shieldaig (middle) and the north edge of the Applecross peninsula
Further round to the west: Beinn Shieldaig (middle) and the north edge of the Applecross peninsula
Liathach (Mullach an Rathain, right, Sgorr a' Chadail, middle) and Beinn Alligin (left), from the same spot
Liathach (Mullach an Rathain, right, Sgorr a' Chadail, middle) and Beinn Alligin (left), from the same spot 		Looking down to the narrows, from the same spot: fading day but also clearing haze: hefty showers arrived before we got in for the evening, though.
Looking down to the narrows, from the same spot: fading day but also clearing haze: hefty showers arrived before we got in for the evening, though. 		First and last of the sun today
First and last of the sun today 		Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire of Beinn Damh
Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire of Beinn Damh
9th December: storms and mother-of-pearl: Our first day in Torridon was wild and brilliantly coloured
9th December: we woke to this: wild, but there's a bright spot in the sky which dropped a hint...
9th December: we woke to this: wild, but there's a bright spot in the sky which dropped a hint... 		...soon realised, tantalisingly, in this, almost directly above us..
...soon realised, tantalisingly, in this, almost directly above us.. 		...before it returned to this
...before it returned to this 		...Was the irisised "flag" a sole flicker? As the far side of the loch disappeared again, there were hints of colour above Beinn na h'Eaglaise ...Was the irisised "flag" a sole flicker? As the far side of the loch disappeared again, there were hints of colour above Beinn na h'Eaglaise ...Was the irisised "flag" a sole flicker? As the far side of the loch disappeared again, there were hints of colour above Beinn na h'Eaglaise
It was going to be a lively day: not much later, it cleared to this...
It was going to be a lively day: not much later, it cleared to this... 		...light and dark...
...light and dark... 		with more colours quickly unfolding...
with more colours quickly unfolding... 		..colours.. ..and shapes..
..colours.. ..and shapes..
...with crepuscular rays to the right...
...with crepuscular rays to the right... 		...plus strong greens and a luminous greyish blue (on the right) which we've never seen before...
...plus strong greens and a luminous greyish blue (on the right) which we've never seen before... 		...still holding its own in a shrinking window of wild stuff...
...still holding its own in a shrinking window of wild stuff... 		...and even a patch of lilac
...and even a patch of lilac
The mother-of-pearl gone, there was still some drama in the sky
The mother-of-pearl gone, there was still some drama in the sky 		..before the whistling, howling wind took over again
..before the whistling, howling wind took over again 		Another respite: very close to the shore, even in gale force winds you sometimes find quite flat water like this Another respite: very close to the shore, even in gale force winds you sometimes find quite flat water like this
Another respite: very close to the shore, even in gale force winds you sometimes find quite flat water like this
Even some sun... Even some sun...
Even some sun... 		...but this soon misted away.
...but this soon misted away. 		Looking towards the head of the loch, (left to right, with snow) Sgorr Dubh, Beinn Liath Mhor, Sgurr Ruadh were all out of cloud, and there's some sunshine over there, silhouetting Meall Dearg (right). But the wind wasn't abating.
Looking towards the head of the loch, (left to right, with snow) Sgorr Dubh, Beinn Liath Mhor, Sgurr Ruadh were all out of cloud, and there's some sunshine over there, silhouetting Meall Dearg (right). But the wind wasn't abating.
Even from here, we could see snow blowing off Beinn Liath Mhor
Even from here, we could see snow blowing off Beinn Liath Mhor 		Spray whipped up from the surface of the loch Spray whipped up from the surface of the loch Spray whipped up from the surface of the loch
Spray whipped up from the surface of the loch 		Patches of light in the distance - no shafts visible, though.
Patches of light in the distance - no shafts visible, though.
We finally set out in the afternoon. There was water everywhere: this quite static standing wave went right over the shore road...
We finally set out in the afternoon. There was water everywhere: this quite static standing wave went right over the shore road... 		...and every crag had its waterfall
...and every crag had its waterfall
In a sheltered roadside hollow, this bramble's unripened berries were consistent red. (There's also a tiny heather flower on the left - 10th December!)
In a sheltered roadside hollow, this bramble's unripened berries were consistent red. (There's also a tiny heather flower on the left - 10th December!) 		Waves, made then squashed flat by the wind: further towards the head of the loch
Waves, made then squashed flat by the wind: further towards the head of the loch 		Beinn Damh, from Fasag
Beinn Damh, from Fasag
10th December: Bealach a'Chomhla, preceded by sea ice!: In contrast to yesterday - perfect winter crispness
The sea at Upper Loch Torridon: freezing begins::
10th December: first light (8.15ish) suggested the reflections would be good (the moon is a bit wavy due to weed near the shore? The slight blur is due to us not having a tripod etc.!). There was frost on the grass and ice on the shore
10th December: first light (8.15ish) suggested the reflections would be good (the moon is a bit wavy due to weed near the shore? The slight blur is due to us not having a tripod etc.!). There was frost on the grass and ice on the shore 		Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now... Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now... Half an hour later, with the reflections brighter now...
...but another hour on, and the whole loch was fuzzy: yes, it was freezing rapidly - while a bright day was just getting going. ...but another hour on, and the whole loch was fuzzy: yes, it was freezing rapidly - while a bright day was just getting going.
With the tide out, the seaweed was well draped with ice...
With the tide out, the seaweed was well draped with ice... 		...well patterned in places...
...well patterned in places... 		...but thin and fragile as yet
...but thin and fragile as yet 		Frosted seaweed Frosted seaweed
Frosted seaweed
Coire Mhic Nòbaill::
This ice was on the estate pond, just by the path through the woods to Coire Mhic Nòbuill (just the other side of the old kennels)
This ice was on the estate pond, just by the path through the woods to Coire Mhic Nòbuill (just the other side of the old kennels) 		Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park
Early sun on Beinn Alligin's Tom na Gruagaich, seen from the road bridge at the Coire Mhic Nòbuill car park 		Still some faint morning colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin...
Still some faint morning colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin... 		...which were more fully revealed a bit further up the path
...which were more fully revealed a bit further up the path
Contrasting light: early view of Beinn Dearg, still in the forested part of the Coire. The cloud looked a bit ominous, but soon disappeared.
Contrasting light: early view of Beinn Dearg, still in the forested part of the Coire. The cloud looked a bit ominous, but soon disappeared. 		Tom na Gruagaich
Tom na Gruagaich 		The three summits of Beinn Alligin: Tom na Gruagaich (left), Sgùrr Mòr (middle) and the Horns (right)
The three summits of Beinn Alligin: Tom na Gruagaich (left), Sgùrr Mòr (middle) and the Horns (right) 		Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic N&ogravebuil - a much photographed waterfall Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic N&ogravebuil - a much photographed waterfall
Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil - a much photographed waterfall
Heading up towards the Bealach a' Chomhla::
Both arms of Beinn Dearg are clear from the fine new bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil
Both arms of Beinn Dearg are clear from the fine new bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil 		Beinn Eighe Detail of Beinn Eighe's Sail Mhòr, with the north end of Ruadh-Stac Mòr behind
Beinn Eighe 		Heading up beside the Allt a' Bhealaich: more waterfalls
Heading up beside the Allt a' Bhealaich: more waterfalls 		There's also a sturdy bridge over the Allt a' Bhealaich: Beinn Dearg from the bridge...
There's also a sturdy bridge over the Allt a' Bhealaich: Beinn Dearg from the bridge...
...and the view downstream
...and the view downstream 		We went off the path to the west. Unlike the previous photo of Beinn Dearg, this one has no automatic contrast-reduction, so the colours are more their natural strength
We went off the path to the west. Unlike the previous photo of Beinn Dearg, this one has no automatic contrast-reduction, so the colours are more their natural strength 		In the sun: left-to-right are Liathach's Sgorr a' Chadail, Beinn Damh (Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire), Beinn Shieldaig, and the Applecross peninsula.
In the sun: left-to-right are Liathach's Sgorr a' Chadail, Beinn Damh (Sgùrr na Bana-Mhoraire), Beinn Shieldaig, and the Applecross peninsula. 		Tom na Gruagaich - "swags" of snow
Tom na Gruagaich - "swags" of snow
Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr
Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr 		Liathach's Spidean a' Choire Lèith (rightmost skyline)
Liathach's Spidean a' Choire Lèith (rightmost skyline) 		Near the bealach now: Baosbheinn
Near the bealach now: Baosbheinn 		..and a similar view later, on the way back
..and a similar view later, on the way back
At the Bealach::
The hidden side of the Horns (Na Rathanan and An t-Sàil Bheg)...
The hidden side of the Horns (Na Rathanan and An t-Sàil Bheg)... 		...and further down the slopes: the outflow from Loch Toll nam Biast - an enchanting place: we came down this way when we climbed Beinn Alligin (Tom and Sgùrr Mhòr, but not the Horns) in 2000
...and further down the slopes: the outflow from Loch Toll nam Biast - an enchanting place: we came down this way when we climbed Beinn Alligin (Tom and Sgùrr Mhòr, but not the Horns) in 2000
Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach
Beinn Dearg, from the Bealach 		Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach
Mullach an Rathain - the summit (left) and ridge down to Sgorr a' Chadail, again viewed from the Bealach 		Frozen sphagnum
Frozen sphagnum
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin 		Left-to-right: Baosbheinn, Beinn an Eòin, Beinn Lair, A'Mhaighdean, Slioch, Beinn a' Chearcaill, Meall a' Ghiuthais, Beinn Dearg, Mullach an Rathain
Left-to-right: Baosbheinn, Beinn an Eòin, Beinn Lair, A'Mhaighdean, Slioch, Beinn a' Chearcaill, Meall a' Ghiuthais, Beinn Dearg, Mullach an Rathain 		Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right)
Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right)
Ice::
Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on lochans and streams Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths
Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths Ice on the paths
Returning::
Liathach
Liathach 		Beinn Dearg, in softer hues now
Beinn Dearg, in softer hues now 		Evening light Evening light Evening light
Evening light Coming off the hill: the woods near the Coire Mhic Nòbuill road bridge Evening light
11th December: ice, fire, and otters: More fabulous skies, and a symphony of sea ice
Sunrise over sea ice:
11th December: sunrise, starting pink and flecked...
11th December: sunrise, starting pink and flecked... 		There was real depth of colour in the sky and on the ice
There was real depth of colour in the sky and on the ice 		Sgurr Dubh (left), Beinn Liath Mhor (right), and Sgorr Ruadh (right), looked unreal at times
Sgurr Dubh (left), Beinn Liath Mhor (right), and Sgorr Ruadh (right), looked unreal at times
Becoming more fiery, with gold...
Becoming more fiery, with gold... 		A wider view to the head of the loch Towards Beinn Damh (right) and Beinn na h'Eaglaise (left of centre) - the bands of cloud on the right later blossomed, radiating out from behind Beinn Damh Panorama from the south slopes of Liathach (left) to Beinn Shieldaig (right): the jetty and Lochside cottage are just visible on the right. Some wider views of the sunrise
Bright cloud takes over:
As the day brightened, the colours retreated to this...
As the day brightened, the colours retreated to this... 		...giving some warmth to Sgurr a'Chadail...
...giving some warmth to Sgurr a'Chadail... 		...and lighting some of the snow higher up Liathach
...and lighting some of the snow higher up Liathach 		Most of the sky looked like this, and the distant gloom soon fizzled out
Most of the sky looked like this, and the distant gloom soon fizzled out
The day was still waxing, so without losing brightness, the cloud thickened from this...
The day was still waxing, so without losing brightness, the cloud thickened from this... 		...to this
...to this 		Sun shone on on Liathach's southern slopes
Sun shone on on Liathach's southern slopes 		...with the distinctive profile of the Sgurr standing out
...with the distinctive profile of the Sgurr standing out
Icebreaking otters:
When we got closer the the big rock on the shore, we could see two otters...
When we got closer the the big rock on the shore, we could see two otters... 		...then three - they were very active, in and out of the sea all the time...
...then three - they were very active, in and out of the sea all the time... 		...The word "lithe" could have been invented for these two in the shadows...
...The word "lithe" could have been invented for these two in the shadows... 		...there was some playing going on, plus some munching...
...there was some playing going on, plus some munching...
...alert to the east...
...alert to the east... 		...and to the west, before disappearing: swimming under the ice must have been a pretty unusual experience for them
...and to the west, before disappearing: swimming under the ice must have been a pretty unusual experience for them 		The moment of emergence! Apologies for the blur - perhaps though the otter was feeling a bit dazed - probably it took a fair whack to break through the ice from below...
The moment of emergence! Apologies for the blur - perhaps though the otter was feeling a bit dazed - probably it took a fair whack to break through the ice from below... 		It seemed to be checking out where it had just come from
It seemed to be checking out where it had just come from
...but a few yards out, not sure what to make of this? Water on top of ice, in the sea?
...but a few yards out, not sure what to make of this? Water on top of ice, in the sea? 		...regaining composure
...regaining composure 		...looking towards the sun...
...looking towards the sun... 		...and ever vigilant
...and ever vigilant
The day settles:
Otter excitement finally over... approaching midday, the ice must have been quite calm here for a while (turn of the tide?), as it was reflecting well on the loch, and catching the light on the beach
Otter excitement finally over... approaching midday, the ice must have been quite calm here for a while (turn of the tide?), as it was reflecting well on the loch, and catching the light on the beach 		The sun highlighted the summit of Mullach an Rathain (here seen as a small pyramid on left high skyline, with a tor at its bottom left)
The sun highlighted the summit of Mullach an Rathain (here seen as a small pyramid on left high skyline, with a tor at its bottom left) 		A closeup view of Sgorr Ruadh
A closeup view of Sgorr Ruadh 		and Beinn Liath Mhor
and Beinn Liath Mhor
The path to Rechullin:
Into the forest
Into the forest 		Lichen and moss on a boulder near the path
Lichen and moss on a boulder near the path 		Needles of frost in closeup...
Needles of frost in closeup... 		...and en masse ...with meadow and winter trees ...and en masse
Winter clarifies the mountainous backdrop of Torridon House: all three summits of Beinn Alligin, snow-covered, can be seen through the trees
Winter clarifies the mountainous backdrop of Torridon House: all three summits of Beinn Alligin, snow-covered, can be seen through the trees 		The pond just east of the rough path to the road bridge and waterfalls; Beinn Alligin again
The pond just east of the rough path to the road bridge and waterfalls; Beinn Alligin again 		Some of the more intricate ice patterns Some of the more intricate ice patterns Some of the more intricate ice patterns
Some of the more intricate ice patterns
Church and memorial; the end of the day:
The Darroch memorial, and the (former) Coire church, looking to Beinn Alligin
The Darroch memorial, and the (former) Coire church, looking to Beinn Alligin 		..and to Beinn Dearg
..and to Beinn Dearg 		..and towards Beinn Shieldaig (left) and the narrows (right)
..and towards Beinn Shieldaig (left) and the narrows (right) 		Southern panorama, from Liathach (Sgorr a'Chadail, leftmost, then Mullach an Rathain), rightwards to Beinn Shieldaig
Southern panorama, from Liathach (Sgorr a'Chadail, leftmost, then Mullach an Rathain), rightwards to Beinn Shieldaig
..and a closeup of Mullach an Rathain, its summit clearer from here.
..and a closeup of Mullach an Rathain, its summit clearer from here. 		Ice envelopes unfolded and flooded by the incoming tide
Ice envelopes unfolded and flooded by the incoming tide 		Sunset approaching: the sky seems to match the frozen surf Sunset approaching - reflections Sunset approaching - reflections
Sunset approaching
12th December: Bealach na Lice, with alpenglow...: Another brilliant winter walk
Walking to Annat::
12th December: first light: the sea still frozen over
12th December: first light: the sea still frozen over 		Walking along the main road from the Torridon junction to Annat: sunrise colours in the northwest sky? Rather hazy - the light not too promising...
Walking along the main road from the Torridon junction to Annat: sunrise colours in the northwest sky? Rather hazy - the light not too promising... 		...But when we got to Annat we saw this; morning light on Beinn Alligin, reflected on one of the few parts of the loch not frozen
...But when we got to Annat we saw this; morning light on Beinn Alligin, reflected on one of the few parts of the loch not frozen 		...and Mullach an Rathain also coming into the early sun
...and Mullach an Rathain also coming into the early sun
Before reaching the path, we noticed again this house
Before reaching the path, we noticed again this house
The route to Loch an Eoin::
The path starts through a small section of forest, then the views soon open out: this is the Mullach, with Sgorr a'Chadail on the left
The path starts through a small section of forest, then the views soon open out: this is the Mullach, with Sgorr a'Chadail on the left 		Ice imprints? Or ice ghosts? Clearly these are frost patterns, but all the ice has gone, leaving lines of coarser (light) grains on the finer stuff underneath
Ice imprints? Or ice ghosts? Clearly these are frost patterns, but all the ice has gone, leaving lines of coarser (light) grains on the finer stuff underneath 		A little further on, looking up Glen Torridon: Beinn Eighe is the rightmost snowy ridge; Seana Mheallan on the right
A little further on, looking up Glen Torridon: Beinn Eighe is the rightmost snowy ridge; Seana Mheallan on the right
The path crosses many large glacier-smoothed slabs of Torridonian sandstone. Sometimes these go on for 20 yards or more. This subtle wave patttern in the rock is one of many features in the slabs. It doesn't look like glacial work: possibly ripple marks, but these would likely have been overlaid or eroded out now? So possibly it is an expression of the original strata in the rock.
The path crosses many large glacier-smoothed slabs of Torridonian sandstone. Sometimes these go on for 20 yards or more. This subtle wave patttern in the rock is one of many features in the slabs. It doesn't look like glacial work: possibly ripple marks, but these would likely have been overlaid or eroded out now? So possibly it is an expression of the original strata in the rock. 		These horizontal lines are glacial scratches (striae)
These horizontal lines are glacial scratches (striae)
Beinn Eighe and the eastern half of Liathach beginning to show better: on the left the end of the jagged Am Fasarinen, leading to the sweeping curve of the southeast spine of Liathach's summit, Spidean a' Choire Lèith. On the right is Sgùrr nan Fhir Duibhe of Beinn Eighe.
Beinn Eighe and the eastern half of Liathach beginning to show better: on the left the end of the jagged Am Fasarinen, leading to the sweeping curve of the southeast spine of Liathach's summit, Spidean a' Choire Lèith. On the right is Sgùrr nan Fhir Duibhe of Beinn Eighe. 		The same view in context
The same view in context 		Small-scale strata in the sandstone, given shape by erosion on the path
Small-scale strata in the sandstone, given shape by erosion on the path
Seana Mheallan starting to take centre stage, though still just "waking up". This was one of the few places where we could see at once, right of Seana Mheallan, Sgùrr Dubh, Sgorr nan Lochan Uaine and Beinn Liath Mhor. Fasag just out of shadow on the left.
Seana Mheallan starting to take centre stage, though still just "waking up". This was one of the few places where we could see at once, right of Seana Mheallan, Sgùrr Dubh, Sgorr nan Lochan Uaine and Beinn Liath Mhor. Fasag just out of shadow on the left. 		Ice continued to engage us: the lines on this small pool are sharp and geometric horizontally, but in the vertical, the undulations are smooth
Ice continued to engage us: the lines on this small pool are sharp and geometric horizontally, but in the vertical, the undulations are smooth 		The path climbs steadily and veers southwards towards this view of Maol Chean-Dearg: the hill behind, to its right, is An Ruadh-Stac.
The path climbs steadily and veers southwards towards this view of Maol Chean-Dearg: the hill behind, to its right, is An Ruadh-Stac. 		Looking back, sun, snow, blue skies. That cloud never took the sun away from us, but it did create even stronger contrasts later in the day...
Looking back, sun, snow, blue skies. That cloud never took the sun away from us, but it did create even stronger contrasts later in the day...
...although a closer look at that view shows it to be quite pronounced - Beinn Eighe's Spidean Coire nan Clach (left) and Sgùrr Ban (centre) now also very clear. This is (snow-covered) quartzite territory, with the low sun picking out Seana Mheallan's very different (Torridonian) structure in the foreground.
...although a closer look at that view shows it to be quite pronounced - Beinn Eighe's Spidean Coire nan Clach (left) and Sgùrr Ban (centre) now also very clear. This is (snow-covered) quartzite territory, with the low sun picking out Seana Mheallan's very different (Torridonian) structure in the foreground. 		Lochan Neimhe, with Strath nam Poll Dubha showing the frost hollow effect
Lochan Neimhe, with Strath nam Poll Dubha showing the frost hollow effect 		Ice on the path Ice on the path
Ice on the path
A huge slab, just east of the path. Here the boulders seemed to be lined up near the edge (though the perspective here exaggerates the effect)
A huge slab, just east of the path. Here the boulders seemed to be lined up near the edge (though the perspective here exaggerates the effect) 		Looking east from the same area to Meall Dearg
Looking east from the same area to Meall Dearg 		The stepping stones over what becomes the Allt Beithe (via Loch an Uillt-bheithe), the outflow from Loch an Eoin. The burn was low and we found it easier to paddle than use the stones! Beinn na h'Eaglaise in the background.
The stepping stones over what becomes the Allt Beithe (via Loch an Uillt-bheithe), the outflow from Loch an Eoin. The burn was low and we found it easier to paddle than use the stones! Beinn na h'Eaglaise in the background.
More patterns in the sandstone
More patterns in the sandstone 		Loch an Uillt-bheithe
Loch an Uillt-bheithe
Icicles the other side of the stepping stones
Icicles the other side of the stepping stones 		Beinn na h'Eaglaise, and Lochan Domhain
Beinn na h'Eaglaise, and Lochan Domhain 		Ceann Garbh Beinn na h'Eaglaise
Ceann Garbh Beinn na h'Eaglaise 		The Fannaichs
The Fannaichs
Loch an Eoin::
Arrival at Loch an Eoin - looking across to Maol Chean-Dearg
Arrival at Loch an Eoin - looking across to Maol Chean-Dearg 		..with its substantial islands. The dip in the skyline on the left is Coire Gorm - Bealach na Lice is just off to the left
..with its substantial islands. The dip in the skyline on the left is Coire Gorm - Bealach na Lice is just off to the left 		Beinn Damh from Loch an Eoin
Beinn Damh from Loch an Eoin
More reflections on ice, with backlighting: Beinn Damh (left), and Beinn na h'Eaglaise
More reflections on ice, with backlighting: Beinn Damh (left), and Beinn na h'Eaglaise 		Ice on Loch an Eoin
Ice on Loch an Eoin 		..and on the path nearby
..and on the path nearby
Bealach na Lice::
On the path to the Bealach: looking back to Loch an Eoin
On the path to the Bealach: looking back to Loch an Eoin 		Nearly at the Bealach: looking forward...
Nearly at the Bealach: looking forward... 		...to Sgorr Ruadh (left and centre) and Fuar Tholl (right). We needed to drop down the other side a little for these views
...to Sgorr Ruadh (left and centre) and Fuar Tholl (right). We needed to drop down the other side a little for these views 		Looking across Glen Carron to the hills of Achnashellach and West Monar Forests. Sgùrr Feartaig (left), with Sgùrr na Conbhaire behind, Beinn Tarsuinn and Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhòr (centre), and Beinn Dronaig, the long snowy ridge of Creag a' Chaorainn rising slightly to the east (left) in front of them
Looking across Glen Carron to the hills of Achnashellach and West Monar Forests. Sgùrr Feartaig (left), with Sgùrr na Conbhaire behind, Beinn Tarsuinn and Bidein a' Choire Sheasgaich and Lurg Mhòr (centre), and Beinn Dronaig, the long snowy ridge of Creag a' Chaorainn rising slightly to the east (left) in front of them
Fuar Tholl
Fuar Tholl 		The less familiar side of the Maol Chean-Dearg, seen from just the other side (east) of the bealach The less familiar side of the Maol Chean-Dearg, seen from just west of the bealach
The less familiar side of the Maol Chean-Dearg, seen from the bealach 		The top of the bealach - as often happens, feeling wider and wilder here.
The top of the bealach - as often happens, feeling wider and wilder here.
Heading back now towards Loch an Eoin, Beinn Alligin re-appeared dramatically:
Heading back now towards Loch an Eoin, Beinn Alligin re-appeared dramatically: 		Sunlight coming still from west of Maol Chean-Dearg, as we got closer to the Loch again Still sidelit - more of the shore of Loch an Eoin Maol Chean-Dearg, low sun now at its heel
Afternoon light round Loch an Eoin 		Looking back to the bealach Looking back to the bealach - last view of Sgorr Ruadh through the dip
Looking back to the bealach
Returning from Loch an Eoin: the day fades but its contrasts and colours deepen:
Mullach an Rathain re-appears, low sun giving shadow and character, any loss of power more than made up for by the darkness of the sky behind
Mullach an Rathain re-appears, low sun giving shadow and character, any loss of power more than made up for by the darkness of the sky behind 		Beinn Alligin and Liathach's lower, west, end, Sgorr a' Chadail
Beinn Alligin and Liathach's lower, west, end, Sgorr a' Chadail 		The rest of Liathach's ridge, with Loch Uillt-bheithe
The rest of Liathach's ridge, with Loch Uillt-bheithe 		..now joined by Beinn Eighe: we're back at the stepping stones now
..now joined by Beinn Eighe: we're back at the stepping stones now
Definitely a hint of pink in the shadow on snow
Definitely a hint of pink in the shadow on snow 		Last view of Maol Chean-Dearg - the sun still appearing to be just below its right hand side
Last view of Maol Chean-Dearg - the sun still appearing to be just below its right hand side 		The Fannaichs, looking "warmer" and much less shadowy now,
The Fannaichs, looking "warmer" and much less shadowy now, 		..and soon pinker
..and soon pinker
Back at the big slab...
Back at the big slab... 		Mullach an Rathain
Mullach an Rathain 		Spidean a' Choire Lèith
Spidean a' Choire Lèith 		Sgùrr Dubh on the right, but the distant Fannaichs steal the show
Sgùrr Dubh on the right, but the distant Fannaichs steal the show
Beinn Eighe also caught some sunset, though
Beinn Eighe also caught some sunset, though 		Soon the Fannaichs became more ghostly again, as they had been in the morning
Soon the Fannaichs became more ghostly again, as they had been in the morning 		Reddish haze on the horizon, mimicing the colours just there at the opposite end of the day
Reddish haze on the horizon, mimicing the colours just there at the opposite end of the day 		Finally back at the road - the colour still there
Finally back at the road - the colour still there
Back at Fasag, someone's garden reminded us that Christmas was only a couple of weeks away
Back at Fasag, someone's garden reminded us that Christmas was only a couple of weeks away 		Although we still had a little way to go, it seems appropriate to end this page with a picture of Jo's place - even after it had shut for the night, looking bright and welcoming
Although we still had a little way to go, it seems appropriate to end this page with a picture of Jo's place - even after it had shut for the night, looking bright and welcoming
The last day: exit from Lochside: As we prepare to leave, all is changing...
Getting ready to go:
13th December: our final morning at Lochside: dawn approaches with a clear starry sky, but where is all the ice?
13th December: our final morning at Lochside: dawn approaches with a clear starry sky, but where is all the ice? 		Cloud soon arrived: mainly light but on the right you can see the leading edge of something rather stronger
Cloud soon arrived: mainly light but on the right you can see the leading edge of something rather stronger 		Walking along the shore road to Fasag: this is where the ice ended up...
Walking along the shore road to Fasag: this is where the ice ended up... 		...great piles of it - plates several feet across and an inch or two thick
...great piles of it - plates several feet across and an inch or two thick
Nearer the head of the loch, it was still frozen over
Nearer the head of the loch, it was still frozen over 		Looking back: a sharp angle in the precipitation behind us - a sign of snow on its way...?
Looking back: a sharp angle in the precipitation behind us - a sign of snow on its way...? 		...and arriving
...and arriving
Leaving Fasag::
On our way to the junction: snow settling on the fields and the wide expanse of beach and saltmarsh at the head of the loch
On our way to the junction: snow settling on the fields and the wide expanse of beach and saltmarsh at the head of the loch 		At the bus stop now. It's nearly two years since the fire here and the trees still carry the scars of comprehensive burning, but amazingly there seems to be some recovery in their tops.
At the bus stop now. It's nearly two years since the fire here and the trees still carry the scars of comprehensive burning, but amazingly there seems to be some recovery in their tops. 		The bus shelter hasn't recovered yet... It did its job admirably, though
The bus shelter hasn't recovered yet... It did its job admirably, though
Views from the bus-stop: Beinn na h'Eaglaise, slowly fading...
Views from the bus-stop: Beinn na h'Eaglaise, slowly fading... 		...and Maol Chean-dearg, also disappearing
...and Maol Chean-dearg, also disappearing 		...looking back towards Fasag - National Trust for Scotland countryside centre on the left
...looking back towards Fasag - National Trust for Scotland countryside centre on the left
Back on the minibus::
Some bus views - wouldn't have been much clearer without the glass and the movement: Glasnock and Loch na Lòin
Some bus views - wouldn't have been much clearer without the glass and the movement: Glasnock and Loch na Lòin 		Woodland near Tornapress - snow starting to accumulate
Woodland near Tornapress - snow starting to accumulate 		Approaching the head of Loch Kishorn
Approaching the head of Loch Kishorn 		Cumhang a' Ghlinne
Cumhang a' Ghlinne
Strathcarron station::
The iron road to Skye
The iron road to Skye 		Strathcarron Hotel - happy springboard for this holiday
Strathcarron Hotel - happy springboard for this holiday 		Deer south of the station
Deer south of the station
Inverness in winter garb::
Perhaps Inverness's most familiar sight, the 19th-century castle
Perhaps Inverness's most familiar sight, the 19th-century castle 		Streets up the hill just south of the centre
Streets up the hill just south of the centre 		Inverness Cathedral Inverness Cathedral Inverness Cathedral
Inverness Cathedral

(Text and photos by Daniel and Clare Gordon. March 2013).

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