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Our first winter visit to Torridon - an extraordinary spectacular of light and sound - a selection of photos by Daniel and Clare (7th-13th December 2012).

Liathach from the south

Many thanks to everyone who's made us so welcome again - Jo and Emily at Torridon Stores, the staff of the Torridon House Estate, and the staff of the Strathcarron hotel.

Also to Murdoch, Mairi and John MacDonald - it was great to see you all.

We were staying at Lochside Cottage, as we did on our previous visit to Torridon, in 2011. We thought that holiday couldn't be bettered... But this seemed even more unique: given that we don't get there very often, and particularly in winter, we'll probably never see and hear the like of this again. We're so lucky to have some recall, and a camera...

As well as the photos below, there are some recordings of the amazing noise of the sea ice moving: the recordings are rough ones but give a bit of the flavour of the whooshing slides, tinkles, smashes and cracks that were our constant accompaniment on the morning of 11th December, with fiery sunrise. Here is an example recording (about 30 seconds long, 0.6 MBytes). The little sea-ice audio page has more. There's also a writeup of the trip on WalkHighlands.

This isn't so much about walks and routes, or even history or the hills themselves, but rather a sample of what we saw over a few days of a winter in Torridon - brilliant, vivid times, which we felt priveleged to witness.

This page is a selection of photos from our trip. The text is mainly in the captions with the photos. For more detail, please see the individual pages, linked from the main page for the holiday, or for a fuller sequence of photos, please see the sequence page. Thank you.

[To see any of the photos below at a bigger size, please left-click on the (small) photo in the table: You can step through the photos on the enlarged display by using the arrow keys; press Esc to quit the bigger display. To make the enlarged display full-screen size, press F11. The full-screen mode will take effect once you move to another photo. Press F11 again to get it back to normal size, etc.

Each box on this page is linked to a self-contained slide-show. You can start the slides at any point in a box clicking on any thumbnail]

Day 1 at Lochside: nacreous clouds over Beinn na h'Eaglaise
Day 1 at Lochside: nacreous clouds over Beinn na h'Eaglaise 		Mother-of-pearl gone, there was still drama in the skies
Mother-of-pearl gone, there was still drama in the skies 		A moment of respite... A moment of respite...
A moment of respite... 		..but this was more typical for the day:
..but this was more typical for the day:
The squalls tore spray from the loch:
The squalls tore spray from the loch: 		Day 2: we walked to Bealach a'Chomhla and back, but first... clear reflections at dawn...
Day 2: we walked to Bealach a'Chomhla and back, but first... clear reflections at dawn... 		...soon became fuzzy
...soon became fuzzy 		Seaweed can't be used to this
Seaweed can't be used to this
Views from the main Coire Mhic Nòbaill path: Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil - a much photographed waterfall
Views from the main Coire Mhic Nòbaill path: Alltan Glas joining the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil - a much photographed waterfall 		...Still some faint colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin
...Still some faint colour on the Horns of Beinn Alligin 		and from the path to Bealach a'Chomhla: Beinn Eighe
and from the path to Bealach a'Chomhla: Beinn Eighe 		...Beinn Dearg, from the sturdy new bridge over the Allt a'Bhealaich
...Beinn Dearg, from the sturdy new bridge over the Allt a'Bhealaich
...Beinn Dearg (without backlight correction), from a little higher up, ...
...Beinn Dearg (without backlight correction), from a little higher up, ... 		...Tom na Gruagaich, from a little west of the path - "swags" of snow,
...Tom na Gruagaich, from a little west of the path - "swags" of snow, 		Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr
Indentations in the snow on Sgùrr Mhòr 		Nearer the bealach now: Baosbheinn
Nearer the bealach now: Baosbheinn
Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right)
Beinn Lair, and A'Mhaighdean (left), Slioch (right) 		Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin
Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eòin (right), with a strong shadow of Beinn Alligin 		Ice on the path Ice on the path
Ice on the path 		Evening light: Loch Torridon again
Evening light: Loch Torridon again
Nearly back at the road by the Coire Mhic N&ogravebaill car park: the last light of the day through the pines. As we walked along the road, the distinctive profile of Sgorr a'Chadail way above us, a brilliant starry night followed.
Nearly back at the road by the Coire Mhic Nòbaill car park: the last light of the day through the pines. As we walked along the road, the distinctive profile of Sgorr a'Chadail way above us, a brilliant starry night followed. 		Day 3: The ice had really set in overnight, and we woke to this:
Day 3: The ice had really set in overnight, and we woke to this: 		The colour faded, and streaky cloud took over:
The colour faded, and streaky cloud took over: 		much of the sky seemed to radiate from across the Loch:
much of the sky seemed to radiate from across the Loch:
Otters, just up the shore from the cottage: they were very active, in and out of the icy sea all the time lithe in the extreme busy and curious eating and playing and watching emerging from under the ice just by the shore... ...and further out - what's this - water on top of ice, in the sea?!
Then we went otter-watching, just a stone's throw from the cottage
The shore ice shone at midday
The shore ice shone at midday 		Sgorr Ruadh
Sgorr Ruadh 		Needles of frost in detail...
Needles of frost in detail... 		...and en masse: the path to Torridon House
...and en masse: the path to Torridon House
...The estate pond, just west of the path up to the road bridge: winter colours
...The estate pond, just west of the path up to the road bridge: winter colours 		Sunset approaching: the sky seems to match the frozen surf Sunset approaching - reflections Sunset approaching - reflections
Sunset approaching 		Some of the more intricate ice patterns Some of the more intricate ice patterns Some of the more intricate ice patterns
Day 4: At Annat: morning light on Beinn Alligin, reflected on one of the few parts of the loch not frozen
Day 4: At Annat: morning light on Beinn Alligin, reflected on one of the few parts of the loch not frozen 		First view of Maol Chean Dearg, as the path gently climbs and veers south round Beinn na h'Eaglaise
First view of Maol Chean Dearg, as the path gently climbs and veers south round Beinn na h'Eaglaise 		Contrasts started early, though they became stronger: The skyline is Beinn Eighe's Spidean Coire nan Clach (left) and Sgùrr Ban (centre), snow-covered quartzite territory; low sun picks out Seana Mheallan's very different (Torridonian) structure in the foreground.
Contrasts started early, though they became stronger: The skyline is Beinn Eighe's Spidean Coire nan Clach (left) and Sgùrr Ban (centre), snow-covered quartzite territory; low sun picks out Seana Mheallan's very different (Torridonian) structure in the foreground.
More path ice More path ice
More path ice 		The Fannaichs in the morning
The Fannaichs in the morning 		Beinn Damh from Loch an Eoin
Beinn Damh from Loch an Eoin 		Ice on Loch an Eoin
Ice on Loch an Eoin
Fuar Tholl, from just the other side of the Bealach
Fuar Tholl, from just the other side of the Bealach 		Heading back now towards Loch an Eoin, Beinn Alligin re-appeared dramatically:
Heading back now towards Loch an Eoin, Beinn Alligin re-appeared dramatically: 		Still sidelit - more of the shore of Loch an Eoin Maol Chean-Dearg, low sun now at its heel
Afternoon light round Loch an Eoin
Mullach an Rathain re-appears, low sun giving shadow and character, any loss of power more than made up for by the darkness of the sky behind
Mullach an Rathain re-appears, low sun giving shadow and character, any loss of power more than made up for by the darkness of the sky behind 		The rest of Liathach's ridge, with Loch Uillt-bheithe
The rest of Liathach's ridge, with Loch Uillt-bheithe 		..now joined by Beinn Eighe: we're back at the stepping stones now
..now joined by Beinn Eighe: we're back at the stepping stones now 		Back at the big slab...
Back at the big slab...
Mullach an Rathain
Mullach an Rathain 		Spidean a' Choire Lèith
Spidean a' Choire Lèith 		The Fannaichs, looking "warmer" and much less shadowy now...
The Fannaichs, looking "warmer" and much less shadowy now... 		...and pinker, stealing the show from the nearer Sgorr Dubh (right)
...and pinker, stealing the show from the nearer Sgorr Dubh (right)
Beinn Eighe also caught some alpenglow
Beinn Eighe also caught some alpenglow 		Long after sunset, nearly back at Annat: reddish haze on the horizon, mimicing the colours just there at the opposite end of the day. Long after sunset, nearly back at Annat: reddish haze on the horizon, mimicing the colours just there at the opposite end of the day.
Long after sunset, nearly back at Annat: reddish haze on the horizon, mimicing the colours just there at the opposite end of the day. 		Back at Fasag, someone's garden reminded us that Christmas was only a couple of weeks away
Back at Fasag, someone's garden reminded us that Christmas was only a couple of weeks away
Although we still had a little way to go, it was a fitting "endpoint" to pause Jo's place - Torridon Stores and Cafè - even after it had shut for the night, looking bright and welcoming
Although we still had a little way to go, it was a fitting "endpoint" to pause Jo's place - Torridon Stores and Cafè - even after it had shut for the night, looking bright and welcoming 		The next morning, it was time to head home. We realised what the incredible cacophony overnight was - like the sound of a massive fireworks display. This was ice on the beach by the shore road
The next morning, it was time to head home. We realised what the incredible cacophony overnight was - like the sound of a massive fireworks display. This was ice on the beach by the shore road
Silver world: nearer the head of the loch, it was still frozen over
Silver world: nearer the head of the loch, it was still frozen over 		Looking back: a sharp angle in the precipitation behind us - a sign of snow on its way...? But for now, it was time to meet Murdoch, Mairi and John MacDonald at Jo's place - a great end to an extraordinary holiday.
Looking back: a sharp angle in the precipitation behind us - a sign of snow on its way...? But for now, it was time to meet Murdoch, Mairi and John MacDonald at Jo's place - a great end to an extraordinary holiday.
Finally, here are a few snaps from the journeys: round Drumochter pass on the way up round Drumochter pass on the way up round Drumochter pass on the way up
Finally, here are a few snaps from the journeys: round Drumochter pass on the way up 		Emerging from the shadows: the Wyvis range
Emerging from the shadows: the Wyvis range 		Loch Achanalt was partly open... ...but mainly iced up
Loch Achanalt
The outline of Sgurr a'Mhuillin seemed almost ghostly...
The outline of Sgurr a'Mhuillin seemed almost ghostly... 		...and gave scale to the ruin it overshadows.
...and gave scale to the ruin it overshadows. 		Nearly at Achnasheeen: looking back
Nearly at Achnasheeen: looking back 		Strange colours on Cnoc na h-Atha, backed by An Ruadh-Stac (left), Meall nan Ceapairean (middle) and Sgorr Ruadh (right)
Strange colours on Cnoc na h-Atha, backed by An Ruadh-Stac (left), Meall nan Ceapairean (middle) and Sgorr Ruadh (right)
We took a diversion to Kyle of Lochalsh before returning to Strathcarron: there was a final brief spell of brightness across Loch Carron
We took a diversion to Kyle of Lochalsh before returning to Strathcarron: there was a final brief spell of brightness across Loch Carron 		The next day we walked to Lochcarron before getting the minibus to Torridon: many of the trees were almost covered in lichen: leafless, this is a wintry sight:
The next day we walked to Lochcarron before getting the minibus to Torridon: many of the trees were almost covered in lichen: leafless, this is a wintry sight: 		This craft centre on the road east out of Lochcarron.
This craft centre on the road east out of Lochcarron.
Liathach (Mullach an Rathain, right, Sgorr a' Chadail, middle) and Beinn Alligin (left), from the saltmarsh at Eilean Mòr with Mol nan Eun
Liathach (Mullach an Rathain, right, Sgorr a' Chadail, middle) and Beinn Alligin (left), from the saltmarsh at Eilean Mòr with Mol nan Eun 		Then the first and last of the sun for the day
Then the first and last of the sun for the day 		The final day: about to head home, at the Torridon bus stop. It's nearly two years since the fire here and the trees still carry the scars of comprehensive burning, but amazingly there seems to be some recovery in their tops.
The final day: about to head home, at the Torridon bus stop. It's nearly two years since the fire here and the trees still carry the scars of comprehensive burning, but amazingly there seems to be some recovery in their tops.
The bus shelter hasn't recovered yet... It did its job admirably, though
The bus shelter hasn't recovered yet... It did its job admirably, though 		The final day: heading home, we stayed in Inverness en route: perhaps its most familiar sight is the 19th-century castle
The final day: heading home, we stayed in Inverness en route: perhaps its most familiar sight is the 19th-century castle 		And the north bank of the Ness in the city, with the Cathedral on the left
And the north bank of the Ness in the city, with the Cathedral on the left

(Text and photos by Daniel and Clare Gordon. March 2013).

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